|
A big triangle poised at the toe-tip of the Italian boot, Sicily is the largest and most populous island in the Mediterranean. It’s also the most southerly of all Italian regions, with all that suggests – a hot climate, a slow pace of life, and a strong, proud culture based around food and family. Physically, it’s a gorgeous place. The interior sees rolling hills and craggy mountains, olive and citrus groves, vineyards and forests. The coast has wide empty beaches with views of Africa, golden curves of sand full of frolicking holidaymakers, windswept rocky outcrops, and black volcanic strands. There’s the fiery drama of Etna and Strómboli, and the remote paradises of the Aeolian islands, Lampedusa, and other offshore idylls. The climate is lovely, with summer days in the 30s and winter days rarely below 15°C. Sunshine is pretty much guaranteed from May to September. Naturally all this makes Sicily a major target for tourists, who also enjoy its astonishing Classical relics, and yet it’s hard to say that any significant proportion of the island is ‘spoilt by tourism’. There’s still a sense of space, and the local culture remains undiluted by outsiders.
Which certainly wasn’t always the case. Sicily’s food, culture and architecture underscores its long history of external influences. An island set in the very middle of the Mediterranean, it was inevitable that every trading or invading group of seafarers would wash up here eventually. The Greeks and Romans built temples here, the Normans and the Spanish erected cathedrals here, the Arabs mixed exotic foodstuffs into the cuisine. A wealth of non-native cultures met and mingled on Sicily, making it now an exceptionally colourful part of Italy. Perhaps because of the island’s long tradition of newcomers, modern-day Sicilians are an immensely sociable and hospitable bunch. Welcoming and talkative, they’re also likely to try and feed you to bursting-point.
But of course Sicilian life isn’t all smiles and sunshine. The same fierce loyalty to friends and family that gives Sicily such a strong, admirable sense of community has been well known to distort into darker things – corruption, nepotism, a system of insider favours, and ultimately the workings of the mafia. The Sicilian Cosa Nostra is still the most powerful of Italy’s small number of regional mafias, but as a foreign buyer on Sicily you’re almost certain never to come into contact with them. They’re just not interested in you and your house in the sun. Why would they be? If you were to open a business in one of Sicily’s larger cities, then they might just come sniffing around. But these days they generally turn their attention to highly profitable international crime, or to siphoning off EU funding. If anything good could be said of the Cosa Nostra, it’s that they often serve as a dark, informal police force, keeping petty crime off Sicily’s streets. Most Sicilians hate the mafia and how it has hindered the island’s development by deterring investors and diverting funding. Many brave, law-abiding Sicilians have made huge efforts towards stamping out mafia activity over the last decade or more, and admirable progress has certainly been made.
Unfounded fears of the mafia, as well as Sicily’s considerable distance from the northern countries of Europe, had until recently deterred many foreigners from buying on Sicily. Traditionally it was northern Italians who bought holiday homes on this beautiful island. But improved travel connections (several budget airlines now fly to Sicily) have brought many more foreign buyers here over recent years. Even so, given Sicily’s manifold charms, the number of foreign buyers is still curiously low. The island keeps bracing itself for a property boom, but it doesn’t seem to quite happen. There is affordable, good-value property here – even some real bargains. There are plenty of potential restoration projects, and plenty of high-end luxury homes. There are great holiday rental prospects, lovely inland towns, gorgeous beach-resorts, lively cities, tranquil tracts of countryside. There’s everything a foreign buyer might want, so why aren’t there a lot more of them here? Sure there’s no shortage of foreign buyers, but it does seem that Sicily ought to attract rather greater numbers.
Some people are unnerved by the thought of Etna. Sicily’s extremely active volcano is Europe’s highest at 3,350 metres, and can always be relied upon for a good show – whether a plume of smoke, a halo of red sparks, or a sudden belch of ash. It might look threatening, with all those fireworks going on, but Etna’s very effusiveness is what makes it relatively harmless. The small, frequent eruptions are like regular bloodlettings, avoiding any huge, subterranean build-up of pressure that might one day devastatingly explode. Brooding Vesuvius in Naples is a far more worrying volcano. It might only go off once every few centuries, but when it does it’s a killer. Etna’s regular lava flows dribble relatively harmlessly down its upper slopes and hurt no one. Sicilians have huge affection for their mighty volcano and its continual spectacle. It’s also responsible for some astonishingly fertile surrounding soil which yields superb fruit and vegetables as well as fuelling grapes for some top-class wines. Don’t forget there’s little Strómboli, too, on the offshore island of the same name – another Sicilian volcano that puts on a pretty safe, reliable show.
Currently, Sicily’s property market can only be described as mixed. Some areas are slowing down, others still growing in popularity. Generally, prices across the island have gone up by an average of 20% over the last three years. Too much for some? High prices might have caused the slowdown in some areas. But Sicily is still cheaper than much of Italy, and there are many areas that represent very good value for money. Clearly you need to know where to look. Few foreign buyers are interested in a holiday home in one of Sicily’s larger cities (Messina, Palermo, etc.), so it probably won’t interest you to learn that property prices are low here. (Catania, Sicily’s second largest city, is an exception, with relatively high prices reflecting its wealth of hi-tech job opportunities.) What might matter rather more to you is that property prices are low in some very appealing tracts of countryside and attractive provincial towns.
Sicily’s southeast corner is definitely a place to consider – i.e., the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa. Both are off the tourist trail, although Siracusa province has seen a lot more visitors – and foreign buyers – in recent years. Both provinces have attractive countryside, lovely beaches, interesting little towns, and very reasonable property prices. These prices have crept up and up over the last five years and will very probably carry on doing so. Siracusa province already has some burgeoning ex-pat communities, in lovely Baroque towns like Noto and Ortygia. It’s possible to get a two-bedroom apartment in a town in either province for less than €100,000. Country houses and villas, meanwhile, sell from €100,000 upwards. As all over Sicily, prices in Siracusa and Ragusa province are highest near the sea, and drop as you move inland.
And you don’t even have to move very far inland to save money all over Sicily. A house just fifteen minutes’ drive from a beach can be a real bargain compared to something overlooking the sand. This is because the wealthy northern Italians who are traditionally the buyers of holiday homes on Sicily have always preferred to be as close to the water as possible, driving up prices there. Demand for seafront property has outstripped supply for forty years; in 1967 a law was passed prohibiting any new construction within 250 metres of the sea – a wise and far-sighted move to prevent the island ever being spoiled by over-development. Some unscrupulous builders flouted this law, and a few modern seaside homes are under threat of demolition. Obviously you should be aware of this if you’re looking to buy something right beside the water. Do ask questions, just in case.
The physical arrangement of Sicily is such that you might not want to buy right on the seaside anyway. Much of the island is hilly or mountainous, so by moving a short distance inland you often give yourself a fantastic view from on high – as well as saving money. This is especially the case on the long northern coast, where steep mountains rise swiftly as you move back from the water. There are numerous attractive towns strung along the northern coast, but the most popular is lovely Cefalù. Just to give you an idea of how you can save money by going inland, note that a small four-bedroom house on the edge of Cefalù currently asks €250,000, while a much larger refurbished five-bed villa in the mountains a few miles behind Cefalù asks a similar amount. Up here in the northern coast’s mountainous hinterland, houses needing work often ask less than €100,000. It’s a great area to look if you’re hoping to save money.
Sicily’s long southern coast is another inexpensive place to consider. Development down here is uneven and there are plenty of wide open beaches. The southern hinterland is gently hilly rather than mountainous, and again, prices are even lower when you step back from the water. If you step back a long way, deep into the island’s interior, as you might expect you’ll find plenty of bargains both out in the scorched countryside and in the handsome towns. Note that the south and interior are less easily accessed than Sicily’s northern and eastern coasts, and that you’ll have a longer drive from the airport or ferry port. Seaside-lovers might like to know that new-build apartments in small-scale, low-rise developments on the north and south coasts can often represent very good value for money. For example, two new developments on the north coast between Cefalù and Palermo – due to be completed this year – will be offering two-bedroom apartments with sea views for €120,000 and upwards.
The northwest corner of the island is yet another place that offers some very good-value property options – both on the coast and slightly inland. Palermo and its airport are never too far away, so access isn’t too difficult. Many local people left Sicily’s northwest in the early 20th century, meaning there are plenty of abandoned rural homes here today that might make your ideal restoration project. Down by the beaches, modern developments are a mixed bag – some of those immediately west of Palermo can seem a little lacking in character, others further round the northeastern tip can be quite tastefully done. You might pick up a nice seaside apartment near the charming resort of Trápani for €160,000. Other likeable waterside towns to consider round here include Scopello, Érice, Sciacca, Marsala and Marinella – often full of cubic whitewashed houses that will put you in mind of the Greek Cyclades islands.
But if money’s no object, or you want the very best holiday rental prospects that Sicily can offer, then you really want to think about Taormina on the northeast coast – the undisputed queen of Sicily’s seaside resorts. Hopelessly lovely and ever-fashionable, Taormina has by far the highest property prices on Sicily. Prices are comparable with the most popular places in Tuscany, and you could easily pay more than a million euros for a five-bedroom house here. But the town is adored by foreigners and Italians alike, and its rentals season is almost year-round.
A two bedroom-property would get you €800 every week in high season, and €400-€600 a week for much of the rest of the year – so it would make a very good investment.
Even higher summer rental rates can be gained from a property on one of the chic Aeolian islands off the northern coast. There’s a great shortage of accommodation here, and the islands are very popular with discerning, retreat-seeking visitors from Italy and beyond. Panarea and Lipari are likely to yield the highest rental returns, followed by Vulcano and Strómboli, but even remote Alicudi and Filicudi see their fair share of summer visitors. Perhaps only Salina remains relatively peaceful year-round. Living costs are high on the Aeolians, however, and access can be a problem if rough seas hold up the ferry crossings.
Finally, a last word of advice on buying property anywhere in Sicily, or indeed anywhere in southern Italy: don’t forget about earthquake-proofing! All modern homes are required to be constructed to withstand the earth tremors which are a common event across most of Italy. All restored homes are similarly required to incorporate strengthening materials to bring them up to appropriate quake-proof standards. If you’re buying a ready-restored home, do just check that the restorers have thought about earthquakes. And if you’re planning on restoring yourself, don’t forget to ask your builder to quake-proof your place. You don’t want a nasty crack – or worse – running down your wall next time you go to visit your lovely new house on Sicily!
[All quoted prices accurate in 2007]
Sicily’s northern coast enjoys dramatic geography – with mountains swiftly rising as you step back from the water. Except for the extreme east round Milazzo which is industrial and unappealing, the northern coast is strung with lovely little towns, beach-resorts, and hilltop villages. The most popular resort is Cefalù, its winding medieval streets and charming piazzas set on a natural shelf pitched above curving sands beneath a craggy mountain. Prices have risen here in recent years, but it’s still possible to get a central one-bedroom apartment for €170,000, or a two-bed near the port for €220,000. Prices drop as you move out of town, and especially as you move up into the mountainous hinterland. A four-bed villa on the outskirts of Cefalù asks €250,000; a refurbished five-bed in the mountains nearby asks €300,000. Mountain houses needing work can go for as little as €60,000. All along the northern coast, properties just a few miles inland can present some real bargains – and they usually have great views too. Just off the northern coast, the tiny Aeolian islands make an exotic, volcanic retreat – varying in average property pricetags, and offering good-to-great summer rental prospects.
Sicily’s most picturesque town, awash with bougainvillea and overlooking two sweeping bays, Taormina attracts more foreign buyers than any other resort on Sicily. Naturally then, it has the island’s highest property prices – on a par with those in Tuscany. You might pay a million euros for a five-bedroom house here. But what a place you get to enjoy for your money. Popular with celebrities and the European jet-set, Taormina has every amenity, a year-round social scene, and a gorgeous climate. If you chose to rent to holidaymakers here, you could almost guarantee to have your property booked for at least six months of the year. A two-bed home would garner €800 or more a week. Relocaters find there are plenty of job opportunities here too – mainly in the tourist industry. On the down side, the cost of living is high and the town can feel quite crowded in high summer. Taormina is also within fairly easy travelling distance of Sicily’s third and second biggest cities – Messina (population 260,000) and Catania (population 400,000). Messina, thirty miles north of Taormina, is very much a working city rather than a resort. Likewise Catania, 30 miles south of Taormina. A thriving place full of snappy IT industries, Catania has grand Baroque buildings and great views of Etna. Property prices are half those of Taormina.
Comprising the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa, Sicily’s southeast is a place with a lot to offer the foreign buyer. Siracusa province has grown fairly popular over recent years, while neighbouring Ragusa province has yet to become as well-known as it deserves. Both have scenic countryside and lovely coastlines. Siracusa province is dotted with ancient Greek ruins and with elegant Baroque sandstone towns, many with charming medieval quarters. There are burgeoning ex-pat communities here, especially in Noto and Ortygia. Two-bedroom apartments can be had in Siracusa province for less than €100,000, and villas start around this price. Ragusa province is quieter and less visited, but it has some attractive resorts and very clean beaches. It also has a very low crime rate – one of the lowest in Italy. Ragusa province is still an inexpensive area for property, even though prices here have risen by about 50% over the last five years. In both provinces, prices are highest in the titular capitals and on the coast. Inland, in the countryside and the small towns, there’s no shortage of bargains. Holiday rental prospects are pretty good in Siracusa, in Noto, and for any homes on the coast of either province.
Sicily’s long southern coast is spacious and thinly-populated compared to the rest of the island’s seaside. There are no mountains brooding behind the beaches, no black volcanic sand – in short, less drama and more tranquillity. The settlements down here are generally quiet and unspoilt, and the property costs quite low. Exceptions include luxury new-builds in burgeoning resorts like Licata. Agrigento is a handsome old place, with an astonishing clutch of Greek temples. Modern development is patchy along the southern coast, with some places exploiting their tourist potential and others not. Similarly there are small pockets of industry scattered amidst the calm. Inland, the hilly, agricultural landscape of the south is dotted with sleepy villages. Further in, to Enna and the very centre of the island, there are many proud and interesting little towns – largely ignored by visitors and yielding very low property prices. The centre’s landscape is hilly-to-mountainous, and if you were adventurous you might consider buying an inexpensive rural retreat here. Ruined cottages and townhouses can ask €10,000-€50,000, while fully habitable versions start around €100,000.
Noisy, bustling Palermo is Sicily’s capital and the island’s biggest city – home to 660,000 people. Formerly a mafia stronghold, it’s a much improved and revitalized place these days. The city’s architecture is full of exotic elements – testament to Sicily’s colourful past – and the property prices are low. Heading west from Palermo, unappealing industry and characterless tourist development goes on for a few miles, then things improve markedly. A series of charming resorts-towns dot the lovely coastline – like Scopello, Érice, Sciacca, Trápani, Marsala and Marinella – and cubic whitewashed homes give the place a look of the Cyclades. You could pick up a new-build two-bedroom seaside apartment near Trápani for €160,000. With numerous rural homes long ago left behind by émigrés, Sicily’s inland west yields some good-value restoration projects. Offshore, the west is graced by the Égadi island group – not quite as chic as the Aeolians, but not as difficult to access either.
An Egyptian living in Switzerland for the last twenty years, Sherif Elsakaf bought a tumbledown country house ten kilometers north of Taormina a few years ago. Appropriately for someone so cosmopolitan, he adores Sicily’s mixture of east and west. “Of all European countries,” he says, “Italy appeals to me the most. The history, the way people live. I was born in Alexandria and a lot of the way Alexandrians do things like food shops and presenting items for sale is similar to how they’re done in Italy. I think it comes from the period when the Italians were controlling much of the commerce in Alexandria. So Italy seems familiar to me, and especially Sicily. I just seem to fit in here.
Despite the concerns of friends who’d heard every negative Sicilian stereotype, Sherif found his purchasing process efficient and straightforward. In fact, at every stage his experience exceeded his expectations. “Everything was better than described! The website said the property was a ‘ruin’, but it wasn’t. It had been lived in only nine years previously. The only real problem was that there wasn’t a bathroom as such. The old man who’d lived there had been living in the old style. And the building limits had been unexpectedly changed, so part of the garden could be used to extend the property if I wanted. Also, they described it simply as having a ‘sea view’. But they didn’t say it was almost 180 degrees of sea view! They said the beach was fifteen minutes away, but it only takes four minutes. Everything was better than expected.
Fears of encountering corruption on Sicily were “very quickly dispelled,” Sherif says. “I never feel at any time that anyone is cheating me. Everyone seems very conscious of not doing it. I think Sicilians are aware of their reputation. And they understand how important it is to have people who come in with foreign wealth and make work for the locals.”
“I go out there for two or three weeks at a time, maybe three or four times a year. But every time I go to Italy it multiplies my desire to go there again. The last time I didn’t want to leave!” Sherif’s work in the media means he has to live in a large, well-connected city like Geneva, and he’s too young to retire, but when that time finally comes it won’t surprise anyone if his thoughts start turning to a full-time life on the Mediterranean island where east has always met west. |
